Open invitation

Please feel free to ask questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

I'm game . . .

How far do most pros actually hit the ball? I see Tiger hit seven iron from freakin' 210 and then the next hole he hits it 160 . . . how does that work?

Do you advise the weekend player to learn exactly how far he hits his clubs or does it matter?

How do you advise a player to play when he don't have is A game? Do you just keep trying stuff . . . in other words . . . If I don't have it maybe I just try to cut it around the golf course?

Which tournament has the hottest chicks? Is it really Houston?

Could you take us through how you and your guy prepare for a major with regards to strategy?

Baseball Lid, Bucket Hat or Visor?

Sorry but I'm full of 'em!

Rock out!

Bucket

Originally Posted by 12 piece bucket I'm game . . .

How far do most pros actually hit the ball? I see Tiger hit seven iron from freakin' 210 and then the next hole he hits it 160 . . . how does that work?

Do you advise the weekend player to learn exactly how far he hits his clubs or does it matter?

How do you advise a player to play when he don't have is A game? Do you just keep trying stuff . . . in other words . . . If I don't have it maybe I just try to cut it around the golf course?

Which tournament has the hottest chicks? Is it really Houston?

Could you take us through how you and your guy prepare for a major with regards to strategy?

Sorry but I'm full of 'em!

Rock out!

Bucket

Bucket comes through. Thread number two.

Conditions play a huge part in how far the ball goes. As far as Tiger and Bubba, who knows how far they can hit it. Most tour players hit the seven iron around 170. Some of the numbers you hear on TV seem off the charts, but it can be because of the conditions. Let's take a 200 yard shot on a par 4. Tour yardage might be 175 front and 25 pin--200 hole. Normally a five iron. It's a little downhill (say four yards), touch of help (five yards), now it's a six. But the greens are firm, so we only want to pitch it 190 to allow for release. Now it's a seven, but it's still a 170 seven iron. Add in a little grass behind the ball or a damp fairway or a really hot day, and you have rocket launch conditions.

Length varies through the bag (relative to the field). The guys who deloft the club at impact can hit short irons miles, but they will not carry the longer clubs as far. Some guys hit the driver hard but don't carry it. They can be long under the right conditions. The really long guys are flying the driver 280 plus. It opens up alot of options.

Every golfer should know how far they hit it. How would you think your way around the course otherwise? You can chart it on the range for a baseline, but you really need to pay attention on the course. When you arrive at the green after a reasonable shot, notice where the ball pitched (in yards), how much it released, and judge your selection. It it an easy thing to do. You will start to create a database. As the file gets larger, you will notice patterns. You will be able to adjust to the conditions (balls carrying today). It also reduces the stress of club selection. You will have data to quiet your mind. You should play for a good shot. Not your best possible shot, but base your club selection on a quality shot.

No "A" game. Difficult answer. Some guys would be more conservative off the tee. Others would say, "If I'm gonna be in the rough, I want to have as short as club as I can." When a tour player is off, it means his misses are wider and more often. When there is big trouble you give it more berth. On a normal hole, you still try to make birdie and trust your short game.

Once in a while a player will say, "You did a great job clubbing today." What the caddie thinks (not said usually) is "I did the same job I always do, but you hit it more consistantly than normal, so it was easier to pull clubs." I had a player who was struggling with his iron game, and I started trying to caddie accounting for keeping the bad shots out of trouble. It just did not work. Good shots need to be good. Get some help if you can't hit good shots. Tour players have the ability (mostly shortgame) to get it around with a decent score without hitting a shot.

Standard answer would be Dallas and Phoenix.

Strategy for a major. I would have a look on Monday morning. It's really the same as any other tournament, but there will be more X's in my book. X's mark where you just can't go. Pin postions will dictate so much about places to miss. I've posted about hitting the driver often. On a hole where you don't, I'll look for the best place to hit it. There's often a spot that the designer thinks you should play from. I'll find that spot and laser back to the tee. Say it's 240, you use that number with the current conditions to choose the club.

I'll come up with suggestions for tee shots on every hole. He'll try those and some others. Sometimes a hole will feel right, and the player will be more aggressive. Sometimes the other way. I will point out some bad spots as well, so I don't have to during the tourney. So much of it is getting in the mindset and used to the conditions. I'll also ask questions or make suggestions to make sure we are on the same page. None of this is rocket science--it's a skill set. Walk the course, get the info you need, and soak it up so you can come up with the answers when they are needed.

Majors are the ultimate test of your total game. Better bring the total game. And don't worry about the score. Process.

Dude! You never disappoint! You must be the fastest freakin' asdf jkl; typer on Tour too.

My dream 4some used to be Homer Kelley, Lee Buck, Milton Friedman and Pam Anderson. You just put Pam on the bench. You HAVE TO write a book.

Ok . . . so how do I chart the yardages exactly? My range is straight down hill so that won't work right? So how does it work on the course . . . used the sprankler head and pace it from the ball mark? Should I keep a record too?

Process? I hear all these pysch cats talking about "process"? Is that just basically make your strategy, preshot routine and mechanics?

Do the pros actually put hook or cut spin on their wedges to have 'em bounce in a certain direction? Or were you talking about high/low/spinny?

Is there a general rule for how much percentage of practice time to alot to different components of the game? 50% putting, 20% driving etc? Or does it just depend?

Who's the best caddie on tour? You gotta be top 3 easy I'd think?

Originally Posted by 12 piece bucket Dude! You never disappoint! You must be the fastest freakin' asdf jkl; typer on Tour too.

My dream 4some used to be Homer Kelley, Lee Buck, Milton Friedman and Pam Anderson. You just put Pam on the bench. You HAVE TO write a book.

Ok . . . so how do I chart the yardages exactly? My range is straight down hill so that won't work right? So how does it work on the course . . . used the sprankler head and pace it from the ball mark? Should I keep a record too?

Process? I hear all these pysch cats talking about "process"? Is that just basically make your strategy, preshot routine and mechanics?

Do the pros actually put hook or cut spin on their wedges to have 'em bounce in a certain direction? Or were you talking about high/low/spinny?

Is there a general rule for how much percentage of practice time to alot to different components of the game? 50% putting, 20% driving etc? Or does it just depend?

Who's the best caddie on tour? You gotta be top 3 easy I'd think?

Bucket,

Here's how I chart. First, we use front numbers off the sprinkler head and add the pin for total. Say 150 front plus 10 =160. Eight iron. When I get to the green I mark in my book: 157 (carry) + 3 (release) "check." That means all went well. I would suggest writing these numbers down for several rounds until you get a strong sense. Only chart good shots. You end up with: eight iron--150, 153, 156, 153, etc. You could build a little data base. Once you get used to it you could stop taking notes. So it's just a temporary effort. For my own game, I use a laser (I don't trust sprinklers) and notice how the conditions are affecting my ball. Somedays you hit it longer or shorter.

Process. Distinct from results. You guys say "Let the motion make the shot."

It's like that. Let your mind have a break between shots. When you get to the ball. Get your yardage. Factor the conditions. Pick your target. Pull your club (one club only PLEASE. Don't be fiddling with two clubs. Decide. (Yes, you can bring three from the cart)). Aim the face. Wiggle around. Let it go. Repeat. All the other junk about score, trouble, position in tourney has nothing to do with the shot. I often won't know what my player is shooting unless we are close to the lead or the cut. In those cases, it does become a factor in the correct strategy, but it still does not change the shot.

I love Couples routine. He stands there and discusses the shot. When he's ready, he pulls the club and goes. If something bugs him, the club goes back in the bag and he resets. No excuses about being bothered by something if you reset.

Spin. I read one time that Kite could draw trap shots to counteract slopes at Augusta. Probably, Stan the Man can too. I was talking out backspin and trajectory. That's enough control.

Percentage is very personal. Ideally, you develop a swing that requires very little maintainance, so you can practice your short game. Most tour players hit alot of feel type wedges everyday. It's good practice for everything and not hard on your body. If you don't fiddle with technique, the short game practice is focused on adjusting to course conditions, ie, type of grass, length of rough, texture of sand. You have to keep your stong points strong and improve your weak ones. After the round, think about what went right and what went wrong. Do a little work.

My favorite is Dave R.--works for Westwood--used to work for VJ. Tells it like it is. Not afraid to speak his mind. He's won a bunch. Hard to debate Stevie's record. Mitch Knox--Duvall's old caddie and now Harrison Frazar's. There plenty of great ones. This is just a sample.

Originally Posted by Hennybogan Please feel free to ask questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

Wow thats mighty generous of you...
Could you share with us how you teach students how to use the driver?

Originally Posted by comdpa Wow thats mighty generous of you...
Could you share with us how you teach students how to use the driver?

Comdpa,

This advice would be tailored to low handicap golfer. To adjust, I would choose the longest club that can be hit consistently.

Already in another post--Don't go for extra on long fours and short fives. You will be able to reach them from the fairway but not the rough. It's OK to let out the shaft on long fives and short fours.

On a straight hole with constant width of fairway and no water, OB, or pot bunkers, hit the driver. If there is a dogleg, but it is created by traps rather than trees and the carry is manageable, go ahead.

On a tree-lined dogleg, if a good tee shot that flies too straight will go through the fairway hit a three wood. Don't try to sling it around the dogleg (as a rule).

If the fairway pinches, and there is a hazard or deep rough, lay back.

On lay up holes, pick a good spot, measure the yardage so you can adjust to conditions. People often just do the math. Hole is 340. They like 80 yards. Hit it 260. That might not be the best spot based on width of fairway, slope, view of the green. It might be better to lay back to 110. Watch getting too close to the green with a front pin over a trap, esp. if greens are firm. Go ahead and get close with a back pin, esp. if the greens are soft.

Birdies are made with iron shots. While you want to be aggressive, you don't want to give away a hole by taking needless risks from the tee.

It's OK to back off your plan if you don't feel it. Hit three wood instead of driver. Seldom should you change your plan to be more aggressive.

Be aware of changing conditions. If the wind is opposite or it has rained the club will likely change.

Originally Posted by Hennybogan Comdpa,

This advice would be tailored to low handicap golfer. To adjust, I would choose the longest club that can be hit consistently.

Already in another post--Don't go for extra on long fours and short fives. You will be able to reach them from the fairway but not the rough. It's OK to let out the shaft on long fives and short fours.

On a straight hole with constant width of fairway and no water, OB, or pot bunkers, hit the driver. If there is a dogleg, but it is created by traps rather than trees and the carry is manageable, go ahead.

On a tree-lined dogleg, if a good tee shot that flies too straight will go through the fairway hit a three wood. Don't try to sling it around the dogleg (as a rule).

If the fairway pinches, and there is a hazard or deep rough, lay back.

On lay up holes, pick a good spot, measure the yardage so you can adjust to conditions. People often just do the math. Hole is 340. They like 80 yards. Hit it 260. That might not be the best spot based on width of fairway, slope, view of the green. It might be better to lay back to 110. Watch getting too close to the green with a front pin over a trap, esp. if greens are firm. Go ahead and get close with a back pin, esp. if the greens are soft.

Birdies are made with iron shots. While you want to be aggressive, you don't want to give away a hole by taking needless risks from the tee.

It's OK to back off your plan if you don't feel it. Hit three wood instead of driver. Seldom should you change your plan to be more aggressive.

Be aware of changing conditions. If the wind is opposite or it has rained the club will likely change.

Henny,

Sorry, did not see that this was under Caddy Shack, so my question was irrelevant,

Sorry folks.

Just when you thought LBG could get no better . . . IT got

10000

Times better.

HB = half man half amazing.

Originally Posted by Amen Corner Henny,

What technical advise would you give the student when talking about the driver?

When getting this far, have you assured if the student is a hitter or swinger and adjust the technical advise to that?

Thanks in advance

Amen Corner,

Certainly there are more qualified people on this board to field swing questions. I do have recommendations about driver set up. While we all like to max out distance, confidence in the club outweighs other considerations. You need to know that your regular swing at your regular force and a little more (for those days you swing esp. well) will put the ball in play.

The tour reps have backed off some of the extreme launch conditions they were spouting a few years ago. I don't know the numbers. Point is: you want a driver that is relatively easy to hit, produces enough distance, and does not require much adjustment from iron swing. I want a driver with enough loft that I feel like I can tee it low, hit it with some downward motion, and lean the tee over.

Although I have access to the new stuff, I'm still playing a 510 (is that ok to say?). I trust it to go where I swing.

One more for Compda: I think that you should stick with a basic ball flight for most tee shots. It's nice to have the abilitiy to work it, but avoid fancy play.

Originally Posted by Hennybogan Comdpa,

This advice would be tailored to low handicap golfer. To adjust, I would choose the longest club that can be hit consistently.

Already in another post--Don't go for extra on long fours and short fives. You will be able to reach them from the fairway but not the rough. It's OK to let out the shaft on long fives and short fours.

On a straight hole with constant width of fairway and no water, OB, or pot bunkers, hit the driver. If there is a dogleg, but it is created by traps rather than trees and the carry is manageable, go ahead.

On a tree-lined dogleg, if a good tee shot that flies too straight will go through the fairway hit a three wood. Don't try to sling it around the dogleg (as a rule).

If the fairway pinches, and there is a hazard or deep rough, lay back.

On lay up holes, pick a good spot, measure the yardage so you can adjust to conditions. People often just do the math. Hole is 340. They like 80 yards. Hit it 260. That might not be the best spot based on width of fairway, slope, view of the green. It might be better to lay back to 110. Watch getting too close to the green with a front pin over a trap, esp. if greens are firm. Go ahead and get close with a back pin, esp. if the greens are soft.

Birdies are made with iron shots. While you want to be aggressive, you don't want to give away a hole by taking needless risks from the tee.

It's OK to back off your plan if you don't feel it. Hit three wood instead of driver. Seldom should you change your plan to be more aggressive.

Be aware of changing conditions. If the wind is opposite or it has rained the club will likely change.

Classic course management advice. That is really really neat stuff.
Now do you ever consider hitting a draw into a fairway that slopes from right to left to gain extra roll when the ball caroms off the face of the fairway?

Originally Posted by comdpa Classic course management advice. That is really really neat stuff.
Now do you ever consider hitting a draw into a fairway that slopes from right to left to gain extra roll when the ball caroms off the face of the fairway?

Comdpa,

I would consider any shot that gives an advantage. I like aggression, but you have to weigh the risks.

Originally Posted by Hennybogan Please feel free to ask questions. I'll do my best to answer them.

Hen

Good stuff, but your giving away all our secrets. By the way people, don't ask this guy about fishing or you will really be in trouble

Bucket,

Overkill spends endless hours on the course and has never given a bad yardage or club.

Quail Hollow is one of the best. Nice blend of risk/reward and just plain hard holes. Firm sloping greens and lots of trees. A real classic.

Do you know of any tour players that work on LAG? Of course there are 3 kinds... Accumulator, Clubhead, and Pivot Lag.

Clubhead Lag is "the secret". The tour players that I have talked to seem to have always have had lag, and are not really aware of it much... they just have it.

I know a fellow that went to the practice round of a major, and just filmed the hands of players coming into impact. He said every tour player had a forward leaning shaft, every one that he filmed. The only occasional guys that were not quite as good were... some of the club pros... this was the P.G.A. Championship.

If they do work on lag... what do they do?

Lagster,

Pros might work on clubhead lag indirectly. They might hit a lot of low shots to change a feel or pattern. My experience suggests that most have good shaft lean but fleeting face and path alighnments. Always working on matching the path and face (whether they know it or not). They work on it until they get the ballflight they want. Obviously, some players have much greater command. Did you see Tiger break the panes of glass ala Big Break----he had not problem.

I do think that they consciously work on pivot lag. Sequence, tempo, etc, are all related to that strong feeling of power in reserve. More later gotta go.