why straight?

Many of my shots are weak fades/slices. But from time to time I feel that I have made a good shot. It's long and straight. But the divots go out to left as usual - maybe as much as 20-30 degrees. Why does then the shot go straight? What determines whether a shot is a slice or straight when swing path is the same? I'm not talking about pulls - that I understand - it's the straight one that puzzle me.

Originally Posted by airair Many of my shots are weak fades/slices. But from time to time I feel that I have made a good shot. It's long and straight. But the divots go out to left as usual - maybe as much as 20-30 degrees. Why does then the shot go straight? What determines whether a shot is a slice or straight when swing path is the same? I'm not talking about pulls - that I understand - it's the straight one that puzzle me.

Air,
First congratulations - posting at a 3.79 posts per day - clip - that's Ted Williams type stuff - even Bucket's a mere 1.91 post per day - at this rate you'll be LBG Hall of Fame material!

Air,
As long as the clubface "horizontal" alignment i.e. taking the loft out of the equation (we know that there is going to be backspin) and the clubhead path are on the line of compression - you'll hit a straight shot. If you've played the ball back far enough in your stance - "up plane" - then you'd need to have the plane line well left of the target line - in order to produce that straight shot.

Let's assume that the hinge action is "dual horizontal" - let's assume you're using a Sandwedge. Let's assume from a clubshaft parallel to the ground until the clubshaft has reached low point that the clubface closes 90 degrees - like a door. Now let's assume that the orbit length for that clubhead is 45 inches - from that parallel clubshaft halfway down location to that vertical clubshaft at lowpoint - Every inch of travel allows 2 degrees of clubface closing. Say you impact the ball 9 inches before low point - then your face is pointing 18 degrees right of target - the only way to hit that straight at the target is to have an open plane line. Hence, your straight shot at the target - with a divot 16 -18 degrees left of target. Completely legit - appropriate - and correct. Moral of the story- a divot well left of target isn't always a bad thing.

Originally Posted by Mike O Air,
First congratulations - posting at a 3.79 posts per day - clip - that's Ted Williams type stuff - even Bucket's a mere 1.91 post per day - at this rate you'll be LBG Hall of Fame material!

Air,
As long as the clubface "horizontal" alignment i.e. taking the loft out of the equation (we know that there is going to be backspin) and the clubhead path are on the line of compression - you'll hit a straight shot. If you've played the ball back far enough in your stance - "up plane" - then you'd need to have the plane line well left of the target line - in order to produce that straight shot. Let's assume that the hinge action is "dual horizontal" - let's assume you're using a sandwedge. Let's assume from a clubshaft parallel to the groud until the clubshaft has reached low point that the clubface closes 90 degrees - like a door. Now let's assume that the orbit length for that clubhead is 45 inches - from that parallel clubshaft halfway down location to that vertical clubshaft at lowpoint - Every inch of travel allows 2 degrees of clubface closing. Say you impact the ball 9 inches before low point - then your face is pointing 18 degrees right of target - the only way to hit that straight at the target is to have an open plane line. Hence, your straight shot at the target - with a divot 16 -18 degrees left of target. Completely legit - appropriate - and correct. Moral of the story- a divot well left of target isn't always a bad thing.

I guess it is easier to have a high postscore over a shorter time than those who have been 5 years or more.

I should maybe have mentioned that I was mostly talking about a 6 iron shot (and occasionally a 2-hybrid) and not so much the shorter irons, in case that makes a difference? I think you are the first who has given me permission to have divots to the left. Thank you. That would in case be terrific news.

If all shots went straight, there wouldn't have been any problems. But the slice also shows its ugly face.

Originally Posted by airair I guess it is easier to have a high postscore over a shorter time than those who have been 5 years or more.

Rule #1 - We spit on 12 Piece - don't post anything that might appear to promote or justify his insanity!

Originally Posted by Mike O Rule #1 - We spit on 12 Piece - don't post anything that might appear to promote or justify his insanity!

How long has this been going on?

I'll try to watch my step.

Originally Posted by Mike O Air,
First congratulations - posting at a 3.79 posts per day - clip - that's Ted Williams type stuff - even Bucket's a mere 1.91 post per day - at this rate you'll be LBG Hall of Fame material!

Air,
As long as the clubface "horizontal" alignment i.e. taking the loft out of the equation (we know that there is going to be backspin) and the clubhead path are on the line of compression - you'll hit a straight shot. If you've played the ball back far enough in your stance - "up plane" - then you'd need to have the plane line well left of the target line - in order to produce that straight shot.

Let's assume that the hinge action is "dual horizontal" - let's assume you're using a Sandwedge. Let's assume from a clubshaft parallel to the ground until the clubshaft has reached low point that the clubface closes 90 degrees - like a door. Now let's assume that the orbit length for that clubhead is 45 inches - from that parallel clubshaft halfway down location to that vertical clubshaft at lowpoint - Every inch of travel allows 2 degrees of clubface closing. Say you impact the ball 9 inches before low point - then your face is pointing 18 degrees right of target - the only way to hit that straight at the target is to have an open plane line. Hence, your straight shot at the target - with a divot 16 -18 degrees left of target. Completely legit - appropriate - and correct. Moral of the story- a divot well left of target isn't always a bad thing.

Sounds familiar.

Doesn't it?

Nice Post.

Originally Posted by Mike O Air,
First congratulations - posting at a 3.79 posts per day - clip - that's Ted Williams type stuff - even Bucket's a mere 1.91 post per day - at this rate you'll be LBG Hall of Fame material!

Air,
As long as the clubface "horizontal" alignment i.e. taking the loft out of the equation (we know that there is going to be backspin) and the clubhead path are on the line of compression - you'll hit a straight shot. If you've played the ball back far enough in your stance - "up plane" - then you'd need to have the plane line well left of the target line - in order to produce that straight shot.

Let's assume that the hinge action is "dual horizontal" - let's assume you're using a Sandwedge. Let's assume from a clubshaft parallel to the ground until the clubshaft has reached low point that the clubface closes 90 degrees - like a door. Now let's assume that the orbit length for that clubhead is 45 inches - from that parallel clubshaft halfway down location to that vertical clubshaft at lowpoint - Every inch of travel allows 2 degrees of clubface closing. Say you impact the ball 9 inches before low point - then your face is pointing 18 degrees right of target - the only way to hit that straight at the target is to have an open plane line. Hence, your straight shot at the target - with a divot 16 -18 degrees left of target. Completely legit - appropriate - and correct. Moral of the story- a divot well left of target isn't always a bad thing.

Well, actually, the "Moral of the Story" is that regardless of the Divots apparent direction relative to the Target, it should always be taken Down and Out On-Plane.

Confusing Plane Line and Target line is for Amateurs.

1-L-14 Divots are taken “Down-and-Out” - not just “Down.”

So, Ball Location determines the Angle of Approach (2-J-3), making the Forearm motion three dimensional (2-C-0). See 6-B-3-0. The “Delivery Line” procedure completely replaces the geometric Plane Line (2-F) and the Target Line because these were established at Impact Fix ("7-8") according to the intended Hinge Action (2-J-1) and Stance Line (10-5) requirements, and their control is completely automatic. Both the Lag Pressure Point and the Clubshaft must so relate to the selected Plane Line OR Angle of Approach - to the geometric or the visual - but don’t try to Monitor both at the same time because, though equally dependable, they need not be identical in execution AS LONG AS THE CLUBSHAFT HOLDS A STRAIGHT LINE RELATIONSHIP TO A STRAIGHT LINE - POINTING AT A STRAIGHT LINE. The orbiting Clubhead must maintain its visual relationship wit the selected Delivery Line per 2-F and 2-J-3 during all Twelve Sections (Chapter "8") while Turning, Cocking, Uncocking, Rolling and Swiveling of the Wrists. See 2-P, 7-23 and "8-0".

oh, wait a minute.....where did I put that "water bucket"?

BUT WE ARE AMATEURS, DARYL



I think you nailed this one

Originally Posted by BerntR BUT WE ARE AMATEURS, DARYL

Hmm? Only because we don't get paid.

Us & Bobby, Daryl. Us & Bobby.

One of the very best sing & song writers in Norway had an album with the title Amatør.

Because an amateur does it out of love

Originally Posted by nevercrosses Most likely, you are hitting the shot on the toe of the club. This has the effect on imparting a left tilt in the spin axis. If your actual shot would have created a right tilt, the gear effect could negate that and the net spin axis is basically, horizontal.

With a face pointing at the target, now you get a shot that flies straight.

But does hitting it off the toe of the club feel like a good, powerful shot?

Pulls go too far to the left. Slices too far to right. There must a point where it does not go to the left or the right - and that should be straight?
I guess that some kind of combination in 2-D-1 (with an out-to-in swing path) gives a straight shot? But it's nothing that I can count on - it's just pure luck. Nice when it happens though.

I would expect that this is an issue of club face control, that you are not consistent getting the face squared up in your swing. It may be open at impact much of the time, causing the weak fade/slice. Occasionally, when you get the face squared, the ball goes straight. Maybe working on clubface control would eliminate the inconsistency.

Originally Posted by rprevost I would expect that this is an issue of club face control, that you are not consistent getting the face squared up in your swing. It may be open at impact much of the time, causing the weak fade/slice. Occasionally, when you get the face squared, the ball goes straight. Maybe working on clubface control would eliminate the inconsistency.

The problem is that a straight clubface hitting the ball on this out-to-in swing path dosen't make it go straight, but results in a pull. So I guess the clubface has to be a little open, but not so much that it results in a slice? Maybe it's the D-plane that makes it go straight occationally ?(Which I don't know anything about).